TRASTEVERE

Walk 5 concludes, coming from Villa Farnesina.

Villa Farnesina is right next to Trastevere, putting you in prime position to take a walk from the villa into this wonderful neighborhood, perhaps followed by dinner there or back in the historic center, Roman style!

Trastevere is fine neighborhood for enjoying an evening stroll among the locals: it’s just across (“Tras”) the Tiber (“Tevere”) River. Depending on where your hotel is located, you could walk here or arrive by taxi. Either way, a good place to begin is at Ponte Sisto, the pedestrian bridge that leads to Piazza Trilussa from which you can quickly walk into the middle of Trastevere.

Regarding restaurant choices, there are so many possibilities! Final decision depends on your hunger, table availability and your desire to keep walking. Early evening is the golden twilight hour for the stroll, taking advantage of the lingering dark blue sky and mix of street and shop lights coming on, so if there is still sufficient light, try not to drop anchor at a restaurant just yet; a short walk first will be most enjoyable. Twilight is a little early for dinner anyway, so seize the moment with a stroll among the locals enjoying their “passeggiata.”

Don’t be discouraged if there is a little rain; in fact a typical light sprinkle is the best possible blessing because it will probably stop shortly, cool things down, clear the air, and leave a glistening shiny surface on the cobblestones that will reflect the multicolored lights of twilight, street lamps and shop illuminations. This will magnify your pleasures; you should be so lucky. The section of Trastevere we have selected is a small neighborhood you can walk through in an hour or maybe two if you want to see everything.

Starting at Piazza Trilussa, proceed along Vicolo di Cinque, lined with touristic outdoor restaurants and waiters trying to tempt you. It is quite scenic, and with a few local shops. In two little blocks you arrive at an odd intersection where five pedestrian streets come together. You might wander up and down each in turn for a few blocks. A typical, casual pizzeria, La Boccaccia, is located two blocks away on Via di Santa Dorotea at the corner with Via di S. Dorotea that also serves pasta and salad, with a couple of outside tables. Numerous other little trattorias abound in the side streets. You don’t have to have a big meal at these restaurants: a light bite of salad, bread and pasta is reasonable and satisfying.

Return to the junction of five streets and walk another block to the main Piazza of Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the loveliest gathering places of the city. This sizeable piazza has all the elements you hope for: a spectacular ancient church, major central fountain, several restaurants with outdoor seating, locals hanging out, kids running around, adventurous tourists, some apartments above, and numerous streets leading away and offering more discoveries.

SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

Be sure to enter the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest in Rome, dating back to the 13th century. Built in the Romanesque style along the lines of an ancient Roman basilica, there is not much light inside because this church was constructed in the “Dark Ages” before they figured out how to put decent windows in the walls of churches. Still, your eyes will adjust after you sit and rest for a while. On the facade are Mosaics of Mary and the Child, on each side the small figure of a bishop (Innocent II. and Eugene III.) and ten virgins, eight of whom have burning, and two extinguished lamps, a work of the 12th cent., freely restored in the 14th.

Notice the golden mosaics above the altar, the monolithic columns taken from ancient monuments, and the coffered wooden ceiling dating to the 16th century. If no-one else has done so, put a coin in the light box next to the altar to brighten up those golden mosaic tiles, wow! It is believed the first church on this site was first built in 220 while the current floor plan dates back to 340. It was rebuilt several times and the present structure dates back to the 12th century, one of the oldest in Rome.

The interior contains twenty-two ancient columns of unequal size, supporting a straight entablature. The Ionic capitals, decorated with heads of Egyptian deities, were brought from the Thermae of Caracalla. The fine pavement is laid with porphyry, verde antico, and other marbles, in the style known as Cosmato work. The ceiling, decorated with richly-gilded carved work, is attributed to Domenichino. The oil-painting on copper in the centre, a Madonna surrounded by angels, is by the same master. Immediately to the right of the entrance to the nave is an elegant tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole.

The Mosaics in the tribune belong to different periods. Above are the older ones, dating like the triumphal arch itself (‘the first Romanesque work of importance in Italy’) from 1139-53. On the arch: the Cross with Alpha and Omega, under the symbols of the Evangelists, Isaiah and Jeremiah. On the vaulting, Christ and the Virgin enthroned. The lower mosaics represent the thirteen lambs and scenes from the life of Mary; in the centre of the wall a mosaic bust of Mary with St. Peter, and St. Paul.

From the piazza you can complete your circular walk by exiting the northeast corner and walking along Via del Moro back towards the river from whence you came. Maybe take a one-block detour left to Piazza de Renzi, with a few restaurants around it but not a terribly scenic or exciting piazza; more like a parking lot, this is a slice of ordinary life in the city, and cute alleys leading off from it might lead you to another adventure.

Whether or not you have dinner on this side of the river, keep strolling afterwards to see more of Rome at night by walking back across the Tiber River, revisiting some of the many splendid neighborhoods we have been showing you.

Depending on your timing, you might also want to visit the nearby Villa Farnesina, an excellent small art museum in a palace, next to Trastevere, and described elsewhere in our webite.

That completes our five walking tours of Rome!