Walk 4 continued:

BARBERINI PALACE

If you are looking for another of Rome's best art museums, consider visiting the National Gallery of Ancient Art in Barberini Palace, midway along Via delle Quattro Fontane. This is a treasure house of painting, sculpture and grand architecture. The collection includes hundreds of important works, but several stand our for me and by them selves would make a visit worthwhile: ceiling mural by Pietro da Cortona, oval staircase by Boromini, square staircase by Bernini, and his bust of Urban VII. Raphael is represented by the portrait of Fornarina, the artist's mistress, no radiant beauty but full of living charm. There is much more to see, as described in the official website.

The display follows the development of the principal Italian schools of painting from the 1200s to the 1700s. The 1500s and 1600s are the centuries best represented at the Barberini, with works by Raphael, Piero di Cosimo, Bronzino, Hans Holbein, Lorenzo Lotto, Tintoretto, and so to Caravaggio and his followers. Dating from the 1600s are many extraordinary works by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Guido Reni, Guercino, Nicolas Poussin, and Pietro da Cortona.

The 18th century portion of the collection features important works by Maratti, Batoni, Canaletto, Subleyras, Mengs and van Wittel, in addition to the paintings donated by the Duke of Cervinara, – a group of exquisite Fragonards and Bouchers – and the Lemme donation, containing rare sketches by Corvi and Ghezzi.

Ceiling fresco in the Salone di Pietro da Cortona: The Triumph of Divine Providence and the Fulfilment of its Purposes under Pope Urban VIII. The fresco was painted by Pietro da Cortona and pupils between 1632 and 1639. The immense composition celebrates the spiritual and political power of the Barberini family through a myriad of characters – over one hundred of them – set in an open space, dilated to infinity beyond the limits imposed by the architecture. The only measure which can anchor the eye is the great rectangular cornice painted illusionistically to resemble marble, dividing the vault into 5 compartments. With its whirling vitality, frenetic rhythm and scenographic spatial illusionism, the fresco is one of the earliest and most accomplished examples of Baroque painting.

Tradition has it that Gian Lorenzo Bernini designed the great staircase set in a square shaft as part of the planned extension of Palazzo Sforza, purchased by the Barberini family in 1625 and intended to be the family's principal dwelling. It was embedded in the pre-existing northern wing of the Sforza building.

Borromini's staircase has an oval plan, flattened longitudinally, so providing easier ascent than staircases on a circular plan. Each turn comprises 12 Doric double twisted columns and capitals decorated with small bees (the Barberini family's heraldic symbol). Spiral-shaped structures, with all the problems involved in their design, were particularly congenial to Borromini's eccentric spirit.

The history of Palazzo Barberini as a national museum, open regularly to the public, began in 1953 when the palazzo became the second venue of the National Gallery of Antique Art.

Piazza Barberini -- Margutta – Babuino -- Piazza del Popolo

PIAZZA BARBERINI

Piazza Barberini is one block further downhill from Quatro Fontane, with Bernini's famous Fountain of the Triton. To the left of the Piazza Barberini lies the Piazza de' Cappuccini, in which is situated the church of Santa Maria della Concezione, or dei Cappuccini, founded in 1624 by Cardinal Barberini. Beneath the church are four burial vaults decorated in a ghastly manner with the bones of about 4000 departed Capuchins. Each vault contains a tomb with earth from Jerusalem.

The American Embassy is 400 meters north on Via Veneto, if you lost your passport, otherwise there is no need to take a look at this former palace surrounded by high fence.

From the piazza walk down Via Tritone two blocks to Via dei Due Macelli, a lovely shopping street that will then lead you in 500 meters to Piazza di Spagna, which you visited in the first walk.

SPAGNA

You could meander some more in the delightful grid of streets at the foot of the Spanish Steps that you saw previously, if you did not see enough the first time. It is an excellent neighborhood of small boutiques carrying specialized Italian clothing, food items and accessories you will not find at home. However, there is one more adventure left to consider to complete the Grand Slam in our walking tour of Rome's most fascinating places, heading to Piazza del Popolo along a route with more of those charming pedestrian and shopping streets.

TRIDENT

The walk to Piazza del Popolo, just 700 meters from Piazza di Spagna, is an excellent amble along a delightful route busy with people and shops, which could turn into several kilometers if you meander. This neighborhood from Spagna to Popolo is called the "Trident," between three main streets: Corso, Babuino and Ripetta, permeated with side lanes, little shops, art galleries, churches, bars, restaurants, hotels and cafes.

Via Margutta, is one of the artsy little side streets on the right (east) edge of the Trident, and is especially fun to stroll, with no cars allowed.

PIAZZA DEL POPOLO

The Trident comes together at the almost-twin Baroque churches on one side of the Piazza del Popolo. The other side of this vast plaza is home to Rome's earliest domed Renaissance church, Santa Maria del Popolo. The piazza is bounded on east and west by curved walls with groups of Neptune and Tritons, and of Roma between the Tiber and the Anio.

A towering 3,000 year-old Egyptian obelisk standing the the center was originally erected by Augustus in 10 B.C. in the Circus Maximus to commemorate the subjugation of Egypt, and dedicated to the Sun. The obelisk was removed to its present position by order of Sixtus V. in 1589. Around it sit four water-spouting lions in a grand fountain, anchoring all the elements in perfect Roman style. No longer a parking lot, the piazza is dedicated to pedestrians.

The monumental Porta del Popolo gateway on the north side of the piazza was constructed in 1562 by Vignola on the site of the Porta Flaminia of Aurelian's wall. The side towards the town was added by Bernini in 1655, as part of the Catholic celebration to welcome Sweden's Queen Christina, who had just shocked northern Europe with her abdication and conversion to Catholicism, a major triumph of the Counter Reformation. In 1878 the gate was enlarged by the addition of two side-portals.

SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO

Artistic treasures inside make this one of Rome's richest small churches. Raphael designed the mosaic dome and Chigi Chapel, which contains two statues by Bernini (who also designed the facade). This magnificent Cappella Chigi was constructed under the direction of Raphael for Agostino Chigi in honor of Our Lady of Loreto, in the form of a Greek cross, with a lofty dome, in the style affected for such structures in the 16th century.

On the vaulting of the dome are Mosaics executed in 1516 by Luigi della Pace, from Raphael's cartoons, admirably adapted to the spaces they fill and displaying the master's power in its highest manifestation. Around the central circular scene, which represents the Creator surrounded by angels, are grouped seven planet symbols and a genius leaning on a globe, separated by ornamental divisions.

In the Choir, ceiling-frescoes by Pinturicchio (1508-9): Coronation of the Virgin, the Four Evangelists, and the Four Fathers of the church, Gregory, Ambrose, Jerome, and Augustine, in excellent preservation, and long deservedly admired for the skillful distribution of space.

There are two major paintings by Caravaggio in a side chapel; an altarpiece by Annibale Carracci; a chapel by Fontana; tombs by Sansovino; and architecture by Bramante.

For light refreshments, try Rosati or Canova, two of Rome's grand old cafes on the piazza, or have dinner at Dal Bolognese. A nearby family-operated trattoria, La Buca di Ripetta, would also feed you very well. The 5-star Hotel de Russie at the top of Via del Babuino has an outstanding restaurant set in their garden courtyard, and deluxe toilets in the lobby.

Perhaps best of all, reward yourself at Rome's most-popular vegetarian restaurant, il Margutta Vegetarian, with rich flavors that will even delight meat-eaters whether seating indoors or out on the pedestrian via Margutta. At dinner, reservations are necessary.

PASSEGGIATA

When you have finished with Popolo, you can get back to your hotel by taxi, metro, or on foot. If you have the energy, walking back from here along Via del Corso in the late afternoon and early evening is a wonderful pleasure because it turns into a pedestrian mall for the passeggiata, that delightful evening stroll, with thousands of people out seeing and being seen. It is a tradition throughout Italy, but here we are in the biggest city, with the most wonderful display of people in motion. Spend some time and enjoy it.

Continue on with our final Walk 5.