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VIA DEL CORSO

Walk 1 concludes with a walk along Via del Corso and the charming side streets.

Continuing from the Altar of Peace, return to Via del Corso then walk south a few blocks to Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina, an attractive plaza you might enjoy perambulating around, then return to the Corso.

In mild weather hundreds of people might be sitting at the outdoor restaurants on this piazza. The church of same name is one of the oldest in town, dating to the early 12th century, built on a previous church dating to 440. Inside you could find another Bernini bust, of Pope Innocent X's doctor, Gabriele Fonseca, leaning out of the frame, in a chapel also designed by Bernini. For those more interested in luxury shopping, there is a huge flagship store of Louis Vuitton facing the church.

One notorious event is reputed to have taken place here in 1606, when that hot-headed artistic genius, Caravaggio, got in a fight with someone and killed them. Escaping from the law, he went into exile for the rest of his short life.

If you have been following today’s busy itinerary, it is probably late in the day and you are now in a good position to enjoy the best possible moments of this traditional early-evening promenade. Romans really care about their appearance and love to show off and check each other out – nothing is more important, and Via del Corso is a great place to catch the spectacle.

However, this presents a challenge to the weary traveler because you are tired and hungry, tempted to sit and eat yet drawn by continuing attractions of the street at twilight. Depending on your timing, perhaps a drink at a wine bar with light snack will recharge the battery and keep you going one more hour. Alternatively, if night falls, drop anchor somewhere here for dinner in any of a handful of fine restaurants in this Spagna neighborhood, including Re Degli Amici and Da Mario, or dig a retreat back to your hotel neighborhood.

Restaurant 34 has been a favorite for many decades, owned and operated by several generations of the same family, who create a friendly atmosphere and provide excellent service and cuisine, based on their long success at this location, on Via Mario de' Fiori, a block from the Spanish Steps. Seating is indoors in the atmospheric rooms, or out on the terrace watching the strollers go by.

Two blocks south on Corso brings you to the busy shopping street of Via del Tritone, where two blocks further you will find Rome’s largest and most luxurious department store, Rinascente.

This is a mega luxury store with seven floors of clothing, accessories, housewares, food and appliances, and the best part is the extraordinary rooftop bar, with a view over central Rome, and filled with trendy locals enjoying a spritz.

They also have a section of the ancient Aqua Virgo Aqueduct in the basement, complete with simulated water flow.

Returning to the Corso brings you to another spectacular shopping mall, the Galleria Alberto Sordi, an expansive space, framed by colorful marble and the high ceiling of translucent glass. It conjures up the atmosphere of a deluxe, covered street, while the coffee bar in the middle makes a fine perch for people-watching, rest and recuperation.

This grand structure was erected in 1914, but later abandoned and left empty for a decade in the 1990s. Gloriously renovated and re-opened in 2003, this is now a smart place to shop for high-end goods, so just walk through and enjoy the luxurious ambience of the vast central mall, a smaller version of Milan’s famous Galleria.

PIAZZA COLONNA

Walk across the Corso into Piazza Colonna, with its Column of Marcus Aurelius, built in 193 to commemorate the great emperor, but the statue on top is actually of St. Paul, placed there in 1589.

Marcus Aurelius (121-180) was considered one of the most important emperors, ruling for 20 years during which time he defeated Germanic enemies along the Danube River when Goths and others were threatening to invade Roman territory, which had reached it maximum size. Ironically, the emperor was a man of peace, most famous for book on stoicism, Meditations. Still in print today, it espouses peace and tranquility in the midst of conflict. Aurelius didn’t want to be depicted in battle, so while violence rages all around him in the sculptures on the column, he is shown as a majestic yet serene leader. The column is 100 feet tall and is composed of 28 drums of Carrara marble, hollow inside with an interior spiral staircase that used to be open to the public.

The piazza’s west side is lined with an impressive row of ancient Roman columns, relocated from a site 10 miles outside the city.

COLONNA GALLERY

One of Rome’s elusive private museums resides behind these columns in the Palazzo Colonna, the Colonna Gallery. Large wall and ceiling murals are featured in this art museum along with deluxe furnishings, many paintings and statues from various eras. Its highly-decorated Baroque interior houses the Great Hall and large reception rooms of the former palace, with important paintings by such artists as Veronese, Tintorreto and Carracci. But here’s the catch: the museum is only open Saturday mornings from 9:30am-1:00pm. Private visits can also be arranged at other hours

In ancient days Piazza Colonna, was on the north edge of the city but today is in the middle, with shopping districts radiating in all directions for many blocks that you would surely enjoy wandering through. From here we shall walk through some charming little lanes back towards the Pantheon.

Depart Piazza Colonna from the northwest corner towards that huge palace, the Palazzo Montecitorio, which now houses Italy’s main legislative body, the Chamber of Deputies. Originally designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the early 17th century, it was later finished by Carlo Fontana as a home for various cardinals and popes including Gregory XV and Innocent XII. You are certain to see the well-dressed police guarding the place.

The obelisk which has occupied the center of the piazza since 1789 was, like that in the Piazza del Popolo, brought to Rome by Augustus. In antiquity it stood near the site of the present church of San Lorenzo in Lucina and was used as the indicator of a sundial. It was originally erected in Egypt in the 7th cent. B.C. by Psammetichus I: Height, including the globe and pedestal, 25 meters.

SMALL LANES

Walk past the front of the palace one block along Via di Uffici di Vicario, to the legendary Giolitti, one of the city’s most famous gelateria. Ah, gelato! The flavor labels are in Italian so it’s a little confusing, but they are all delicious. Gelato is served at a softer texture and with higher fat content than American ice cream, so the flavor really comes through. Try several unusual flavors together, topped with complimentary whipped cream.

If you order standing up at the counter, you are not supposed to sit down to eat it. This protocol is followed at all Italian snack bars, which have two price lists posted, one for standing and another slightly more expensive one for sitting: you pay rent to rest your weary bones, which is often worth it. If you prefer being waited on, sit down at a table and you will be taken care of.

If you are just going to the counter for takeout, first go to the cashier and pay, but if you are with a small group, don’t line up single file, but instead gather all around the cashier so locals can’t cut in front of you.

When finished enjoying your heavenly gelato while standing up out front, continue walking and turn left on Via della Maddalena. Notice the many outdoor restaurants along this narrow pedestrian lane. While it has an attractive, energetic atmosphere, this eating street is strictly for tourists, as you might surmise from the eager waiters touting their menus as you go by.

Right around the corner you'll find several excellent restaurants that are more for locals, especially lovely at night after an evening’s meandering. Via delle Coppelle half-way along on the west side leads to a tiny, hidden piazza of the same name with several good restaurants, especially at Maccheroni, one of the best!

Another block south you enter a little piazza where you will see Santa Maria Maddalena, a rare example in Rome of the rococo style. Despite its small size there is a huge number of decorations, sculptures, paintings and marble decor packed inside this little gem of a church. Its very elaborate organ is one of the most amazing in the city. For the best view of the intricate façade, you need to stand back on the far side of the little piazza to fully appreciate the intricate curves and statues in their niches.

It’s great to get away from the crazy traffic and enjoy these exclusive pedestrian lanes, filled with a mix of tourists and locals. The Pantheon is just one block further south, completing our very long and incredible first walk. It covered a lot of ground, and can be done in one big day, but you might feel more relaxed if you saved some of this for another day. However, then you are looking at a full week at least in Rome to cover everyting we present in these web pages. That would be nice if you can!

End of walk 1.

Walk 2 starts at Campo dei Fiori.