The city is steeped in scholarly charm, where bicycles glide down cobbled streets and history speaks from every corner. Imagine punting down the River Cam past willows weeping into the water, drifting on the breeze. King's College Chapel, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, dominates the skyline with its stained-glass windows that blaze with color. Beyond the iconic colleges, Cambridge offers a treasure trove of delights.
The Fitzwilliam Museum holds a world-class collection of art and artifacts, from Egyptian mummies to Impressionist masterpieces. A treasure trove of art and antiquities. Marvel at Titian’s masterpieces, ancient Egyptian mummies, and delicate porcelain.
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For a glimpse into scientific discovery, explore the Cambridge University Museum of Zoology, a quirky delight filled with dinosaur skeletons and a dodo.
Feeling peckish? Wander down Mill Road, a vibrant artery packed with independent cafes, bustling markets, and international restaurants. Sample local cheeses, lose yourself in a bookshop overflowing with dusty tomes, or savor a pint in a historic pub where Nobel laureates once debated.
Cambridge may be a city of academia, but its heart is light. Relax in the punt after a day of exploration, watching the sun set over the ancient buildings. This is a place where time slows down, inviting you to contemplate, explore, and be swept away by the magic of a bygone era.
University Enclaves: A constellation of colleges, each with its own character.
Just a few examples: (see map for more)
King’s College, where the Choir of King’s College Chapel serenades centuries-old traditions.
Trinity College: Its Great Court, framed by the Wren Library, echoes with whispers of Newton and Byron.
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My hotel choice: Hilton
For more information see the Official Tourist Information website
PLACES
All Saints Passage, shops
Bridge of Sighs, built in 1831 at St John's is best observed from the stylish bridge designed by Wren just to the south also on St John.
Great St Mary's Church, Senate House Hill; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat 1-4pm Sun)The foundations of Cambridge's sublime university church date from 1010. It was burnt to the ground in the 1290s and rebuilt in 1351. The major expansion of 1478–1519 resulted in the late Gothic Perpendicular style you see today. Striking features include the mid-Victorian stained-glass windows seating galleries and two organs – unusual in a church. The tower (adult/child £3.50/2) was added in 1690; climb it for superb vistas of Cambridge’s dreamy spires.
Lion Yard – a multi-level mall of high-street shops and places to eat. In the southwest corner of the market square is Peas Hill with some intriguing alleyways branching off it – St Edward’s Passage for example, is home to the 13th-century church of St Edward King and Martyr.
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Market Square, a cobbled expanse filled with stalls every day. Vibrant and aromatic, the market buzzes with locals and students. Sample artisanal cheeses, browse secondhand books, and savor street food.
Botanic Gardens: A horticultural haven where rare blooms and tranquil paths invite contemplation. Find solace under the weeping willows.
Grantchester Meadows: Picnic by the river, where swans glide and cow parsley dances.
The Eagle Pub: Step into history at this timber-framed pub. The RAF Bar holds signatures of World War II airmen etched into the ceiling.
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Mathematical Bridge (flimsy-looking wooden construction joining the two halves of Queen's College) was first built in 1749. Despite what unscrupulous guides may tell you it wasn't the handiwork of Sir Isaac Newton (he died in 1727) originally built without nails or taken apart by academics who then couldn't figure how to put it back together.
Mill Road is the coolest corner of Cambridge. This foodie enclave branches southeast of the city center between Parker’s Piece and the A1134. A mile-long hub of hipster cafés international restaurants and independent shops .
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Round Church, Bridge St; adult/child £2/free; h10am-5pm) Cambridge’s intensely atmospheric Round Church is one of only four such structures in England. It was built by the mysterious Knights Templar in 1130 and shelters an unusual circular nave ringed by chunky Norman pillars .
Senate House Passage, next to “Great St Mary’s Church leads to the Backs the grand sweep of riverside lawns behind the colleges.
Silver Street Bridge: A glimpse back on foot (next to the Anchor pub on Silver St) allows you to gaze upstream to Queens’ College and Mathematical Bridge. Designed by William Etheridge in the 1740s, this bridge follows a sophisticated design that makes it look as though it’s built from long pieces of timber, but it is, in fact, made from lots of shorter pieces.
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St Andrew's St, h9.30am-4pm (closed early April–mid June): A great institution more than 500 years old, Christ's gleaming Great Gate is emblazoned with heraldic carvings of Tudor roses portcullis and spotted Beaufort yale (antelope-like creatures). Its founder, Lady Margaret Beaufort, hovers above like a guiding spirit. A stout oak door leads into First Court, one of Cambridge's more picturesque front courts and the only circular one.
St Edwards Passage, shops
The Backs, Behind the Cambridge colleges’ grandiose facades and stately courts a series of gardens and parks line up beside the river. Collectively known as the Backs the tranquil green spaces and shimmering waters offer unparalleled views of the colleges and are often the most enduring image of Cambridge for visitors. The picture-postcard snapshots of college life and graceful bridges can be seen from the riverside pathways and pedestrian bridges – or the comfort of a chauffeur-driven punt.
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RESTAURANTS
Aromi, ITALIAN https://www.aromi.co.uk/ 1 Benet St; h9am-8pm Fri-Sun to 5pm Mon-Thu; Sometimes you should yield to temptation. So be drawn in by a window full of stunning Sicilian pizza and feast on light crisp bases piled high with fresh spinach and Parma ham. Then succumb to the indecently thick hot chocolate; may as well make it a large.
Bread and Meat, 4 Bene’t St 11.30–20.30 daily. A slow food champion serving gourmet sourdough sandwiches with British meats alongside other homemade dishes created with local ingredients. To wash it down choose craft ales organic coffees or Suffolk cream milkshakes.
Byron, BURGERS https://www.byronhamburgers.com; 12 Bridge St; h11am-11pm)A bustling better-than-average burger bar where students families and business types perch on reclaimed banquettes tucking into prime patties and more.
Cambridge Wine Merchants, 31–32 Bridge St 01223 568989 https://cambridgewine.com 10.00–21.00 Sun–Thu 10.00–22.00 Fri & Sat. Named as one of the UK’s top 25 wine bars and best independent retailer this wine shop and bar has one of the world’s largest collections of wines spirits and cigars including some from Cambridge colleges. Their Bridge Street premises sits by the river and has views of Magdalene College. They also have a shop and bar on King’s Parade ( 01223 309309 10.00–20.00 Mon–Sat 11.00–19.00 Sun).”
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The Cambridge Chop House, BRITISH https://www.cambscuisine.com/cambridge-chop-house; 1 Kings Pde; 14-20; hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat to 9.30pm Sun) The window seats here deliver some of the best views in town – onto King’s College’s hallowed walls. The food is pure English establishment too: hearty steaks and chops and chips plus a scattering of fish dishes and suet puds.
Clowns Café 54 King St; h8am-11pm; A friendly Italian family has created this Cambridge institution; a top spot for cooked breakfast homemade lasagne or lingering over a first-class coffee.
Cotto, INTERNATIONAL 01223-302010; https://www.cottocambridge.co.uk; 183 East Rd; 3 courses 50; h6.30-9pm Wed-Sat; v) An irresistible blend of artistry and precision ensure chef Hans Schweitzer’s creations look gorgeous and taste fabulous. Delights might include saffron-infused Cromer crab and crayfish tian or herb-encrusted salt marsh lamb followed perhaps by a Caribbean palm sugar and vanilla bean brûlée.”
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Fitzbillies, 51–52 Trumpington St fitzbillies.com 08.00–18.00 Mon–Fri 09.00–18.00 Sat & Sun. Founded in 1920 this cake shop and café is legendary for its Chelsea buns – actor Stephen Fry once described them as ‘peerless’. They have a second café on Bridge Street (number 36) next to Magdalene Bridge. They also offer pre-order picnics and afternoon teas.
Gardenia, GREEK https://www.gardis.org.uk; 2 Rose Cres; hnoon-4am; 'Gardi's' is responsible for the late-night nutrition of a large chunk of the student population and its walls are plastered with photos of happy customers munching on the lamb souvlaki and doner kebabs.
Loch Fyne, BRITISH A 500-year-old former pub across from the Fitzwilliam Museum supplies a real treat in landlocked Cambridge—remarkably fresh seafood including a good selection of oysters and Scottish salmon (this is part of a Scotland-based chain). Be aware that oysters here are lot more expensive than they are in many parts of the U.S. but well-priced two- and three-course set menus are a good value as are fish and chips and some other fish-house standards. 37 Trumpington St. https://www.lochfyneseafoodandgrill.co.uk. ? 01223/362433. Daily 11:30am–10:30pm.
Michaelhouse Cafe, Trinity St 09.00–17.00 Mon–Sat noon–16.00 Sun. Just off the market square this converted church is breathtakingly beautiful with most of the old features retained. Serving breakfasts and lunches that prioritizes local produce it’s a wonderful sanctuary from the hubbub of city life.
Midsummer House, Midsummer Common 01223 369299 midsummerhouse.co.uk 12.30–13.30 & 18.00–19.30 Wed–Sat. This acclaimed restaurant occupies a Victorian villa on Midsummer Common and holds two Michelin stars. The seasonal menu focuses on English produce – think Suffolk tomatoes with English basil grass-fed Yorkshire beef and Cambridgeshire strawberries with ewe’s yoghurt.”
Oak Bistro https://www.theoakbistro.co.uk; 6 Lensfield Rd; set lunch 2/3 courses 13/16; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat) Truffles (white and black) olive pesto and rosemary jus are the kind of flavour intensifiers you'll find at this friendly but classy neighbourhood eatery where locally sourced duck fish and beef come cooked just so. The set lunch is a bargain.
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Old Bicycle Shop, 104 Regent St 01223 859909 oldbicycleshop.com 10.00–23.00 Mon–Sat 10.00–17.00 Sun. After 173 years of trading Britain’s first bike shop (Charles Darwin is said to have bought a bike here in the 1800s) closed its doors. Luckily the new owners embraced the old shop with everything from bike-part artworks to cycle-themed cocktails in their trendy café/restaurant. The menu ranges from vegan brunches to cod with dashi seaweed but my favourite is the ‘Tandem’ platter with jackfruit nuggets and sweet potato hummus.
Restaurant Twenty Two, 22 Chesterton Rd 01223 351880 restaurant22.co.uk noon–13.30 Wed noon–13.30 & 18.00–20.45 Thu–Sat. Set in a Victorian house with stained-glass windows this fine-dining restaurant is committed to local suppliers. Come for the set lunch or evening tasting menu and savour the likes of chalk stream trout with caviar or lamb with summer herbs and vegetarian dishes. 22 Chesterton Rd. https://www.restaurant22.co.uk. ? 01223/351880.
The Varsity, Thompson’s Ln (off Bridge St) 01223 306030 thevarsityhotel.co.uk seasonal hours The roof terrace at Varsity is the ultimate place to sip a cocktail or tuck into a burger with panoramic city views. It’s only open in summer
Clayton Hotel Cambridge
Gonville Hotel Gonville Place, CB1 1LY; http://gonvillehotel.co.uk. One of the better mid-range choices in Cambridge this pleasantly refurbished hotel occupies a long albeit so
Graduate Granta Place, Mill Lane CB2 1RT; http://graduatehotels.com/cambridge. This is the city’s most appealing hotel by a long chalk occupying a stylishly designed 1960s building a short walk from the centre.
Hilton Cambridge City Centre (my choice)
Hotel du VinBOUTIQUE HOTEL, £££ www.hotelduvin.com; 15-19 Trumpington St; d/ste from £150/240; iW)This maze-like luxe hotel near the ‘Fitz’ oozes history as well it should – it’s spread over five Georgian mansions
Hotel Felix, The Victorian-era facade and sweeping lawns suggests old world opulence but beyond the grand entrance everything is fairly functional.http://www.hotelfelix.co.uk/
Modernist Varsity soars above the old part of Cambridge topped by a terrace with eye-popping views. The 44 sleek rooms http://www.thevarsityhotel.co.uk/
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Regent Hotel, This lovely Regency mansion dates from the 1840s and overlooks Parkers Piece a 25-acre bit of greenery right in the center of town. http://www.regenthotel.co.uk/
Regent Hotel,small hotel in central Cambridge this handsome Georgian town house http://www.regenthotel.co.uk/
University Arms Hotel, LUXURY HOTEL£££ www.universityarms.com; Regent St; r from £240) This extravagant but refined hotel looks as old as the Cambridge colleges but the grand frontage is actually a skilful reconstruction of a historic
University Arms,rich historical status as Cambridge’s oldest hotel the University Arms is a welcome luxurious optionhttp://www.universityarms.com/
Varsity Hotel and Spa, The town and college take center stage here since the floor-to-ceiling windows in most of the handsome modern rooms afford fascinating glimpses over the towers spires and rooftops
