THREE DAYS IN COPENHAGEN
“Almost Utopia” Denmark's capital city of Copenhagen ranks very high on any list of great places to visit. And yes, it is one of the most-popular cities in Scandinavia, most likely due to the mix of sophisticated modern culture and a well-preserved historic past. The architecture and town plan reflect this mix - a picturesque harbor surrounded by the old town, with many palaces, museums, gardens and shops to keep everyone happy.
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Copenhagen is a medium-sized city of 1.5 million that gives you the benefits of a cultured metropolitan center without the problems of a vast, congested city. It is similar in size and character to Stockholm and Amsterdam, with historic old brick buildings lining a picturesque waterfront that extends for 30 miles along the edge of the town.
"Hagen" means harbor, so water is integral to this alluring city's identity and history, including that Viking chapter when they ruled much of England and parts of Europe. (They say "Copen Hey gen" not "Copen Hah gen" because they want no association with WWII Germany.) Copenhagen has been an important commercial town ever since the time of the Hanseatic League in the Middle Ages, when it was connected into a vast northern Europe trading network.
Highlights of Copenhagen include Rosenborg Palace; Amalienborg Palace; City Hall Square and the Little Mermaid. You will also want to see Tivoli Gardens and several of the art and history museums in town. But the greatest attraction of all is the city itself, especially along the narrow pedestrian lanes that run through the heart of the old part of town, lined with historic buildings, shops, cafes, bars and restaurants.
Like the rest of Scandinavia, this is an expensive city, but you can save money by spending most of your time walking, which is always free and offers the best way to truly see any city. You can also save money by visiting in July when hotel rates are lower and the weather is fine, with extended summer daylight giving more time to explore. If you plan to visit a lot of museums you could also save money by purchasing the $60 Copenhagen Card for three days of admission to 70 attractions and free travel on all city buses and trains.
Copenhagen is perfect for walking, as the center of town is small enough to cover on foot and the narrow streets that wind through it offer wonderful discoveries to the attentive explorer. You cannot really get lost here, so wandering a little off the beaten path is well worth the effort. There is an amazing shopping lane called Stroget that runs for a mile through the center of town, claimed to be Europe's longest pedestrian street, with various side lanes that are also free from automobile traffic. This central square mile will be a major focus of the visit, supplemented with a few easy excursions to nearby palaces and attractions. In the evening, try Tivoli Gardens -- a fun amusement park for adults and kids that is a world unto itself.
DAY ONE: Boat tour; walk through center; Amalienborg Palace; Rosenborg Palace;
DAY TWO: Christiansborg; Glyptotek art museum; Another walk in the center; Nyhavn.
DAY THREE: Another walk; National Museum; National Gallery; Tivoli Gardens.
DAY ONE: Exploring the town center.
Start your day with a short stroll through the town center, walking along the famous pedestrian street of Stroget. You will come back here frequently during your stay in Copenhagen since this is really the center of action in town. Oddly enough, this appealing lane changes names five times during its course but is never officially labeled as Stroget, even though that's what everyone calls it; so don't look for Stroget on a map or on street signs. Starting from the Tivoli end it is named, in turn, Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and Ostergade.
For now, enjoy a simple reconnaissance stroll along the Stroget and some of the small side lanes that catch your eye, with a goal of getting to the excursion boat dock nearby. The canal boat tour offers one of the best ways to get a quick overview of the city, for it gives you an easy orientation, enhanced with narration from a guide who fills you in on a little history and provides descriptions of the passing sights. The 50-minute tour can be started at two different locations in the heart of town, depending on which is more convenient for you: either from Gammel Strand, or Nyhavn, which would be closer to the next activities. The circular route will be the same either way. Catch the day's first tour, which departs at 10:00am, or if you miss that one, there are departures every half-hour. The boat winds along through several canals, passing under the bridges and into the harbor.
Water is very much part of the national identity, for Denmark consists of 406 islands and a large peninsula on the west that is connected to Germany. Copenhagen is on the largest island, Zealand. Denmark is a small country of just 5.3 million people, with a total land area only about 10% the size of Sweden, or equal to Switzerland. Most of the country is flat, making for useful agricultural land, so the population density is higher than elsewhere in Scandinavia, which is heavily forested.
The boat tour will bring you to the Little Mermaid on the north edge of town, showing you her backside, which hopefully will be sufficient for you. If you must see her from the front it will take a couple of hours to either walk there or catch a public bus later on. So be satisfied with the rear view for now. She is smaller than you might expect, but is still the most famous symbol of the country. The boat will soon deposit you back where you began, so you can now begin the walking expedition. If it is a rainy morning the boats put on glass roofs and the view is obscured, so postpone the ride until the skies clear.
Your next goal is to reach Amalienborg Palace at noon for the colorful Changing of the Guard ceremony, but it is only a few blocks away, so take a leisurely stroll whether you are coming from the boat dock at Gammel Strand or Nyhavn. We'll come back to the Nyhavn canal tomorrow night for the daily outdoor party and dinner, but for now, get your bearings and pick up on a little history at the King's New Square.
KING'S NEW SQUARE
Nyhavn canal ends at one of the city's two main centers, the King's New Square, or Kongens Nytorv, built by King Christian IV. When he ascended the throne in 1596, Christian wanted Copenhagen to become a major trading center for Northern Europe, so he built up the city in many ways, including the network of canals, town squares and warehouses. A great admirer of France's Louis XIV, Christian presided over a period of massive expansion, doubling the size of the city and creating many of the landmarks buildings that still stand today. He was the most important monarch in Danish history and, with 23 children from three wives, could almost be considered father of modern Denmark.
King Christian’s nation-building efforts, however, were frustrated during the 17th century when Denmark lost its long war with Sweden and was reduced in size to its present modest boundaries -- a considerable loss of status since the Danes had been the effective rulers of all Scandinavia and parts of England in previous centuries. For 134 years the Danes tried to convince the Swedes that they were part of Denmark but never succeeded. Various internal revolutions, religious wars, invasions and sweeping fires rocked Copenhagen during the next several centuries, but through all these challenges, the nation maintained its independence and continued to thrive. Today the Danes live in harmony with their neighbors -- except when the annual soccer championship takes place and war breaks out.
The King's New Square is surrounded by some of the city's grandest buildings, including the French Ambassador's Residence and the Royal Theater, one of the few in the world where opera, ballet and drama are performed. Next to the theater is the Charlottenborg Palace, with a gallery in the back that hosts special art exhibits. Other landmarks here are the Copenhagen Amber Museum and the Royal Academy, where young artists are educated. Art exhibits and special events are occasionally held on the square. Scandinavia’s largest department store, Magasin, is also on the square. King Christian V is immortalized in the center with a magnificent bronze equestrian statue. The wonderful pedestrian lane, Stroget, which you started on this morning and will return to later, begins at this square next to the large, white, deluxe Hotel d'Angleterre, and it continues one mile to the City Hall Square, the other main center of town. Exit the square on the opposite side, walking along the street named Bredgade towards Amalienborg Palace, into the district of Frederickstad.
FREDERICKSTAD and KASTELLET
Frederick's City is an elegant neighborhood located just beyond Nyhavn, on land donated by King Frederick V to the people in 1749 to celebrate 300 years of royal rule. It was developed as a noble quarter for the elite, with grand 18th century mansions along wide boulevards. The centerpiece of this district is the Amalienborg Royal Palace, but before you get there, stop and admire the Marble Church, "Marmorkirken," sometimes called Frederick's Church. The towering dome, based on St. Peter's in Rome, is astonishingly beautiful in its baroque grandeur. The church is open from 10:00am, or from noon, Friday - Sunday. It was supposed to have been built entirely of marble, but the people ran out of money and work got delayed for 150 years, when it was finished in stone and beautifully decorated with dozens of statues. Just a block away you can see three gold onion domes atop a Russian church, but this is closed to the public.
Amalienborg Palace is a unique complex of four nearly identical, rococo mansions around the edge of a broad, octagonal square, with a huge equestrian statue of Fredrick V in the middle. Built for noble families in the late 1700's, the royal family took possession in 1794 after their former palace burned down. There is a small public museum here, the Royal Danish Collection, showing off royal family memorabilia and furnishings. The guards change at noon, so time your visit accordingly. If the queen is home, a marching band accompanies the ritual, but if this is early summer, she might be out of town and there is no ceremony. If you want to catch the entire event, you could start with the new guards at 11:30 a.m. at Rosenborg Palace and walk along with them through town on a winding path that reaches this square at noon.
TIVOLI
Tivoli Gardens is undoubtedly Copenhagen's most popular major attraction, with 3 million visitors each year drawn to its entertaining mix of amusement rides, forty restaurants, live music, tree-lined gardens with 400,000 flowers, evening illumination by 115,000 colored lamps and generally festive atmosphere. The private park has been operating for 150 years, which lends a historic elegance to the mix: carnival games on one side, rides all around the perimeter, with a peaceful atmosphere in the center offering sedate pleasures of promenades, tea service and flower gardens. When you enter, ask for the day's entertainment schedule so you can catch some of the events, like the pantomime show of light ballet, the young boys marching band, acrobats, animal acts and free music performances at the various outdoor stages. You could go along with a 100-year tradition and ride the balloon high into the sky for a bird's-eye view of the surroundings. Tivoli is the third most popular amusement park in Europe, and will get even busier next year when the scary, new triple loop roller coaster ride opens. A legend holds that Walt Disney was inspired to build his parks after a visit here.
Best time to visit the park is just before twilight, so you can explore the park in late daylight and then enjoy the magic illumination as the lights come on. One of the prettiest night scenes is the sparkling lights outlining the Chinese Pagoda, reflected in the boating pond in front. Stay for dinner and be a kid again by taking one of the wild, scary rides. The costs do add up quickly because you pay $9 entrance, plus each ride charges its own fee. You are welcome to just stroll around and enjoy the atmosphere, for which you pay nothing extra. To dine at the most elegant park restaurant, make reservations for Divan 2, or for more traditional Danish fare, try Groften or Balkonen. A firework spectacular happens every Saturday night at 11:45pm, best seen in front of the concert hall. For night owls, the park stays open until 11:00pm Sunday through Wednesday, and until midnight the other days.
DAY TWO: Government center; art museums shopping; and street party.
CHRISTIANSBORG
Just ten minutes walk from the Stroget, Christiansborg is a large complex of monumental government buildings and gardens on a small island. It has always been the political center of town, starting from 1167 when Bishop Absalon founded the city by building his castle on this spot. This was the site of the royal residence for many centuries, but fires burned down a series of castles and palaces until finally the huge Christiansborg Slot was built at the beginning of the 20th century. This complex is the only building in the world to contain the three main branches of a government: Parliament, High Court and Prime Ministry. For a small fee, visitors may go inside to admire the Royal Reception Rooms and also descend beneath to see foundations of earlier, destroyed palaces. Denmark still has a royal family, headed by the beloved Queen Margrethe II, but the royalty have no political power. The royals moved their residences out ages ago to the very comfortable Amalienborg Palace on the other side of town.
The Outer Courtyard and side wings of Christiansborg are survivors from the Baroque palace built in the French style in mid-18th century. You are free to walk around the grounds of this sprawling complex to enjoy the different views, especially the nicely framed approach in front at the Marble Bridge.
A passage through the arcades leads to the beautiful Library Garden filled with colorful flowers and a large fountain in the middle. Amazingly, this garden used to be a harbor where the warships of Christian IV were secretly prepared for battle, hidden behind large buildings that still surround this space. Here you will find the Arsenal, open as a military museum with one of the world's best collections of 18th and 19th century armaments, housed in Europe's longest arched room, 170 yards long. The Royal Library is also still functioning here, with its ultra-modern black glass extension, called the Black Diamond, attached on the harbor side. The garden also has a bronze statue of Soren Kierkegaard, the nation's most famous philosopher who started the existential movement. If you don't believe this enclosed garden space could have been a warship harbor, look behind the benches to find a large metal ring that was used to tie up the ships.
Another historic building adjacent to this complex is the Stock Exchange, the "Borsen," an early 17th century building originally used for storing and selling merchandise rather than for stocks and finances. Conveniently located at the water's edge, cargo could be offloaded from ships directly into the basement storehouses. Christian IV founded the institution as an important element of his plans to expand the trading power of his kingdom. The Borsen is not open to the public, but worth admiring from the outside, with its brick gables and spiral tower representing four dragon tails. Walk along Ny Kongesngade to reach the city’s main art museum. (This route also brings you past the history museum, which we suggest you save for tomorrow rather than packing in two museums back-to-back, but if you feel up for it, cover this one today as well.)
FINE ART MUSEUM
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is the artistic gem of Copenhagen, with the nation's highest quality collection of fine arts, spanning thousands of years from ancient Egypt up through French Impressionism. The Renaissance-style museum opened in 1897, funded by Carlsberg beer owner Carl Jacobsen, who called it a place where art is "displayed in joy and harmony, to grace life for the living." The building complex is as beautiful as the art within, starting with the Winter Garden -- a large, glass-domed greenhouse just inside the front door. This indoor jungle has palm trees and other tropical exotics growing in lush abundance, with benches scattered about so you can sit and absorb the tropical scene. Visitors can also enjoy refreshments or a fine meal at the café terrace overlooking the garden. The café serves the best chocolate cake in town.
The front building, which wraps around the indoor garden, contains mostly Danish and French sculpture, featuring the largest Rodin collection outside France. Behind is a building added in 1906, containing the Classical collection of ancient Greek, Roman, Etruscan and Egyptian statues, jewelry and related arts. However, you really should conserve your energy by starting with the third building, an ultra-modern structure designed in 1996by the nation's leading contemporary architect, Henning Larsen, holding the extensive French Impressionist collection of masterpieces by Degas, Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh and others of this period. Paul Gauguin was married to a Danish woman and lived in Copenhagen for five years before moving to Tahiti, so there is a strong selection of his works. There is also a wonderful collection of Danish painters of the early 19th century "Golden Age."
When you have finished admiring the art, walk a block to City Hall Square (Radhuspladsen) and enter the pedestrian zone. A Burger King and a 7-Eleven ironically flank the entrance to the main walking street, but don't let that throw you -- it's a charming neighborhood. Rather than walking again on Stroget, try a parallel shopping lane just south, which also changes names as it winds through the center: Kompagnistraede, Laederstraede, Kirkestraede and Kongensgade.
SHOPPING and EXPLORING:
Copenhagen's town center is like a big shopping mall, but set in quaint historic buildings rather than in a modern, sterile arcade, showcasing a diverse mix of independent stores along with major outlets. Stroget winds for a mile through the middle of this neighborhood, connecting City Hall Square with the Kings New Square. Automobiles were banned from this street in the early 1960s, making this one of the first pedestrian zones in Europe. You could walk the length of Stroget easily in 30 minutes, but since it is lined with shops the whole way, some people might take all day to get from one end to the other. It does get pretty crowded, which is great for people-watching, especially if you enjoy gazing at beautiful, blonde Scandinavians. However, the side streets are much quieter and offer a welcome relief from the masses on the Stroget.
Numerous streets for pedestrians branch off from the main walking lane of Stroget. You can find your own way through here this afternoon, taking all the time you need to thoroughly cover the attractive, main lanes of Kobmagergade, Fiolstraede and Kompagnistraede (the Tivoli end of Stroget). Don't even try and pronounce them, but you can easily find these little streets by looking around, or consulting the free maps that are widely available. There are many other nice little lanes for you to discover -- you will quickly get the picture.
Look for peaceful little squares like Graabrodretorv, sheltered by trees, with welcoming benches for you to sit and relax a while, surrounded by pubs and restaurants. The university district is two short blocks away, with some funky shops for students, antiques and cheap eats. Copenhagen's Our Lady Cathedral is on the south edge of this student zone, and worth visiting
Nearby, on Kobmagergade, you will find the Round Tower ("Rundetarn"), which has an outdoor observation platform with a great view across the rooftops of the old town. You walk up an internal spiral ramp seven times around to reach the top of this 17th century astronomical tower, 115 feet above the street. The slope is quite steep on the inner edge but gentle on the outer side of the ramp, and much easier coming down. It is said that nobles would ride up the spiral in their carriages in the old days. This street also has the Post and Tele Museum, a surprisingly interesting history of postal and telephone service, with a rooftop café that offers a lovely view across the historic, red-tile rooftops.
This central neighborhood is a perfect size -- one square mile. It is large enough to provide many places to explore for days, but small enough that you won't get lost or exhausted covering the sights. The street pattern is also perfect for walking, with narrow winding lanes that developed during many centuries before the automobile took over and "modernization" flushed out what was left of the charm in so many cities. Like many European cities, Copenhagen has managed to preserve its special historic character.
The best shops, with high-quality clothing, electronics, souvenirs, jewelry, restaurants and cafes are in the section of Stroget between Gammetorv, with its Dolphin Fountain, and on towards the Kings New Square. In the center, at the Dolphin Fountain, you will find an especially strong lineup of four major retail names in a row: George Jensens Silverware Shop, Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Shop, Holmegaard Glass and Illums Bolighus home furnishings with an excellent display of Scandinavian design. These four stores are interconnected so you can walk from one to the next without stepping outside. Together they make up a stunning display of Danish goods at their best. The latest trends in crystal and ceramics are displayed a few doors down at Rosenthal StudioHaus.
When you get hungry there is no problem finding food in this central area, ranging from sidewalks stands selling pizza up through some of the most expensive dining in Europe. The most typical, simple meal is the smorrebrod, a small open-face sandwich you can readily find in a hundred varieties. The large department store, Illiums, at the major intersection of Stroget and Kobmagergade, is pricey but has a reasonable cafeteria with excellent food, as does Magasin, the town’s other main store at the end of Stroget. Many bakeries are now offering inexpensive, take-out sandwiches.
Gammel Strand is Copenhagen at its most charming, along the picturesque shore of the Holmen Canal, a few blocks from the Stroget. Here, and further along Nybrogade, you will find rows of historic buildings lined with art galleries, antique shops, sidewalk cafes and excellent restaurants, including Krogs, the oldest and most famous seafood house in town. On the weekends you might browse in the small flea market on the little square. Enjoy the splendid views across the canal toward Christiansborg and the Thorvaldsen's Museum, which has a large collection of the nation's most famous sculptor, Bertel Thorvaldsen, who worked in Rome during the first half of the 18th century.
You could extend your reach by riding a bicycle. There are 2,500 free bicycles available at 125 different locations around town, thanks to an innovative city-sponsored program. Everyone is welcome to use them anywhere within the city limits, which makes this city even easier to see and helps cut down on air pollution. The rider pays a $3 deposit to unlock the distinctive yellow bicycle, which is refunded when the bicycle is returned to one of the convenient drop-off points. There are also ten different guided tours on bicycle, offered by City Safari (see web listings). Denmark is a nation on two wheels, with 3 million bicycles for the 5 million people.
Many bicycle paths criss-cross the city, making it very easy to get around, especially since there are no hills to pump up. The City Bike program costs the government $220,000 a year to maintain, keeping the bicycles and pathways in good working condition. Half the bicycles were stolen in the first summer of the program, but things have improved since then with a big increase of bicycles and drop-off places. This makes Copenhagen one of the safest and friendliest cities for bicycling in the world, but at the same time it can be hazardous to the naïve tourist who is looking out for cars but not paying attention to bicycles, which can zoom along at high speed. Be careful not to walk in a bike path. When walking across the street, Danes always wait for the green light, so if you cut across at the red you might hear some comments. Typical for a small country, Danes love to put their noses into their neighbors business -- so if you hear "hoo, hoo" when you jaywalk, you have been properly reprimanded.
NYHAVN
Most shops close at 5:00 or 6:00pm, which is a good time to hit Nyhavn, just beyond the end of Stroget, across the Kings New Square. An amazing outdoor party happens every evening along the picturesque Nyhavn canal in the heart of town, where people gather by the thousands to drink and talk. This is the biggest ongoing party in Europe! It is one of the world's most amazing gathering places, in a beautiful setting framed by sailboats tied up along the dock on one side and a long row of bars and restaurants facing them, with colorful old houses on both sides of the canal. But ironically, the street party is fueled by beer purchased in nearby shops rather than from the more-expensive bars. Everyone stands or sits around on the ground and along the dock having a grand time, with a constant stream of six-packs coming in and empties being carried out by scavengers. Most of the partygoers are young professionals relaxing with friends after working all day, enjoying some laughs and a few beers. You are welcome to join in if you feel comfortable in this setting, because the locals speak English and are quite friendly, especially if you bring a six-pack to the circle. Things are especially lively here in the long twilight of a summer day, when it doesn't get dark until after 10:00 p.m.
Danes are world-class beer drinkers, but this scene at Nyhavn is all very civilized, with no sign of rowdiness or loud behavior. While it may not be fair or accurate to lump all the people of a nation into a stereotype, the Danes are widely regarded to be the friendliest and most easy-going of the Scandinavians, and you can see that in action at this "longest bar in town." Perhaps the Danes are more European than Scandinavian in temperament because they are geographically connected to the mainland. The rest of Scandinavia is further north, in colder climes on a huge peninsula attached to Russia, separated from the rest of Europe by the Baltic Sea.
Nyhavn means "new harbor," but it was built 350 years ago and many of the colorful buildings lining the canal date back that far. For hundreds of years this was a sleazy waterfront dump where you would only meet drunken sailors and hookers, so it was a place to avoid, but forty years ago it turned completely around and became very fashionable. It makes a lovely stroll any time of the day or evening, and the restaurants are very good along this picturesque waterfront. Grab an outdoor table for a ringside seat at the best show in town to round out your wonderful evening.
DAY THREE: History museum; working-class neighborhood; and some day-trip options.
NATIONAL MUSEUM
The magnificent National Museum covers 14,000 years of human history in a huge former palace that occupies an entire block, located between the Glyptotek and Christiansborg. About half the space is devoted to Danish history, from the Stone Age through modern times, with thousands of artifacts arranged in chronological order -- so you want to be sure to walk through the displays in the proper sequence to get the full effect. Another large section takes you on a journey around the world, with special emphasis on the Inuit. The exhibition also includes many artifacts from Africa, India, Indonesia, New Guinea, New Zealand, Japan, China, Central Asia and Siberia. There is also a room playing world music and slide shows about various cultures. The ancient classical worlds of Egypt, Greece and Rome are also represented, with mummies, vases, jewelry, glass and more -- exhibits that document daily life, special occasions, politics, religion, life, love and death in these ancient societies. Interesting special exhibits are usually offered. This is the nation's largest museum.
Those interested in modern design should visit the five-story Danish Design Center, just around the corner, next to the City Hall Square. Clean, functional style has been a hallmark of the Danish Modern movement, influencing industrial design, furniture and fashions throughout the world, and this is the showcase where you can see many examples of modern Danish design.
That completes the visit to Copenhagen's main attractions, leaving the afternoon free to pursue various options. You might want to backtrack and see more of things already covered, or catch something you missed, or move ahead to experience new adventures. Here are some options for you to consider.
ROSENBORG SLOT
The area around Rosenborg Slot (Palace) is filled with so many interesting things to see you could spend the rest of the afternoon here, enjoying fine art, royal history, geology and exquisite gardens. Enter this district through the Royal Gardens, originally built for King Christian IV in 1606 to provide food for his kitchen, but now the oldest park in town with its original plan still intact, offering broad, green lanes and narrow paths to explore.
Rosenborg Palace is the museum of the Danish kings, containing the Crown Jewels, a royal throne, original furniture, detailed stucco decorations and dark wood paneling throughout. Built in Renaissance style so typical of Copenhagen at that time, with red bricks, sandstone accents and the green copper roof, it appears to be a fairy-tale castle right out of Hans Christian Andersen.
When you have finished touring inside the Palace, there are a couple of museums to consider and the wonderful, not-to-be-missed, Botanical Garden, with 20,000 species from around the world arranged in beautiful patterns that utilize remnants of the old fortified walls and moat that once circled the city. Meandering paths wander through the lush gardens and into different greenhouses for tropical palms, cactus, orchids and rainforest plants. A café behind the conservatory serves lunch.
In the same park you will find the largest art museum in Denmark, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, with a comprehensive European collection ranging from old masters up through early 20th century, including one of the world's best collections of Danish painters. A new building in the back has greatly enhanced the collection with large amounts of dazzling, contemporary art, and offers lovely views into the gardens beyond. All of which makes this museum a must for all art-lovers, especially since it is easily included with the palace visit and a pleasant stroll through the adjacent Botanical Garden.
VESTERBRO and FREE BEER
For those interested in getting away from the tourist center and seeing how the natives live, you could explore a working class neighborhood in the Vesterbro district behind the train station -- which will also lead you to the Carlsberg Brewery where you can take a tasting tour. This formerly run-down area has been rejuvenated in recent decades and transformed into a multicultural district, with affordable housing, ethnic restaurants, schools and parks. This area behind the train station also has the largest cluster of affordable hotels, so you might even be staying here. The main shopping district of Vesterbro is along Vesterbrogade, which also has some of the city's best nightlife.
An excellent case study of successful urban renewal can be found at Hedebygade, an old housing block at the end of Matthaeusgade that has been transformed into a model development, with communal gardens in the center and totally refurbished buildings. Another nearby example of old housing for workers that still functions well are the rows of little homes on the other side of Vesterfaelledvej, called Humleby. All this urban investigation might just be a good excuse to get to the brewery. Enter the Carlsberg complex through a monumental gateway straddled by four massive granite elephants, but arrive well before the 4:00pm closing if you hope to tour the factory and sample the free beer; then catch a bus back to the center. (Closed on weekends).
CHRISTIANSHAVN
The island of Christianshavn, which you already passed by on the boat tour, is an easy 10 minute walk from the center along Torvegade, its main street, or short ride on Bus 8 from City Hall Square. Christianshavn has some quaint canals, cobblestone streets, lots of old buildings and several particular attractions: a steep spiral you can climb on the outside of the tower of Our Saviour's Church for a breathtaking experience, on Dronningsgade; the Royal Danish Naval Museum; and the Christiania hippie commune -- a "free city" with some good vegetarian restaurants, shops with hippie clothing, paraphernalia, pottery and pot for sale.
NEW METRO
Another way to get around town and see some typical local neighborhoods is by taking a ride on the efficient public transit system. Copenhagen has a new metro system operating with an automated technology that has no drivers. It is completely controlled by computers. The underground rail system started in 2002 with 9 stations, and now has 37 stations on 4 different lines, covering much of the city. Trains arrive every 90 seconds during peak periods, and can bring you from the city center to the airport, for example, in eight minutes.
This brings up some deeper social reasons why Copenhagen has evolved into the fine city we see today. Despite the disparity between rich and poor found in all countries, Denmark has one of the world's most even distributions of income, and social benefits available to all. For example, the upper fifth get 40% of the total income, compared to America where the top fifth get more than half of all income. However, the high taxes in Denmark redistribute some of this and the government provides generous social services to all, regardless of income.
Danish care starts with birth, when parents can take up to two years paid leave from work to raise their baby, with either mother or father taking time off. Pre-schools are then provided, staffed by well-paid, qualified staff, followed by public schooling right up through university level that is free and of highest quality. Unemployment has dropped from 12% to 5% in the past decade, and those without a job can collect 90% of their former salary for three years while looking for work. The elderly population is similarly provided for, with an emphasis on home care services rather than relocation to retirement homes. All meals can be delivered and attendants can drop in on those needing assistance around the clock. This is a caring society.
There is no utopia, but Denmark comes as close as it gets.