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Antwerp

Antwerp is one of the most amazing cities in Belgium. Come along on our journey and we'll show you lots of reasons to visit this wonderful place. We'll see historic landmarks like thousand-year-old Het Steen Castle. It was a fortress guarding the river. Then it became a prison, a place of execution, and now it's the Tourist Information Office with exhibits.

We'll take you inside the country's largest Gothic cathedral, and we'll visit several major museums with collections housed in some very old buildings that are as interesting as the artifacts contained inside and a very modern, highrise museum with a view looking down into the marina. But most of all, we're going to take you on walking tours through these beautiful pedestrian lanes of the old historic center.

Most guidebooks and videos only focus on those landmarks the big buildings, the museums, those churches. And maybe they'll rattle off a list of hotels and restaurants. But our approach is different. We take you on a walk through those pedestrian lanes in the historic center of town. And of course, we'll show you those important landmarks and other historic sites not to be missed.

Back in the 16th century, Antwerp had been Europe's second largest city, after Paris, and had the strongest economy on the continent because it was a major trading center with the largest harbor. During that illustrious period of wealth, the city grew rapidly. As a result, a lot of modern Antwerp is filled with those classic old historic buildings from the Golden Age.

If you arrive here by train, your very first sight is going to be the golden train station, one of the most beautiful train stations in all of Europe. With its original design preserved from its origin in 1905. This grandiose architecture is like a railway cathedral, steel and glass rising to the sky. There's a convenient metro line that will take you from the station right to the center of town, just over a kilometer away. To pay for the ride, tap your credit card while entering and then tap it again on exiting, very easy, with escalators.

The center of town is an automobile restricted zone that is mostly for pedestrians and a few cars with permits. So this is a great place to walk. Not very large, this pedestrian zone is just about a kilometer and a half wide, making it very easy to stroll through in one day, or better yet, if you have two days so that you can catch all of the added attractions.

You could certainly wander through the area without a map or directions and enjoy the experience. But in the visit we're following one route that brings you to most of the main streets without duplicating your efforts or getting lost, as we're showing you in a map, illustrating the sequence of streets that we'll be walking along. Starting out at every body's favorite place -- we're in one of the most beautiful plazas in all of Europe. It's the Grote Markt in Antwerp, right in the heart of town with the Brabo fountain in the middle. You're looking at beautiful old buildings, they're just everywhere with the cafes, you can sit and have a beer or have a meal, have dinner and enjoy the sights.

Grote Markt

This main square is the historic heart of the city, surrounded by magnificent buildings showcasing Flemish Renaissance and Gothic architecture. The Stadhuis (City Hall) is a prominent feature, displaying a stunning facade adorned with statues and intricately carved details.

Take a moment to appreciate the Brabo Fountain, depicting a legendary tale of a brave Roman soldier who defeated a giant and freed the city from his grasp.

This great square is the beating heart of Antwerp. Overshadowed by its magnificent Town Hall built in the 16th century. In front stands the famous statue of Brabo, a six legendary hero who slayed the giant that was harassing Antwerp, chopping off his hand and tossing it in the river. Come back later for a closer look at these old guild halls, restaurants and bars all around the plaza.

Several of the most important streets laid out from here, including the Oude Koornmarkt, where you'll find yourself surrounded by a captivating blend of architectural styles. The facades of picture-perfect Flemish houses with steep gable roofs and charming shutters create a postcard worthy scene, not just a feast for the eyes. It's a culinary haven with cozy bistros and inviting outdoor terraces, a delightful street just 300 meters long and worth repeated visits.

Several attractive side lanes extend out from it, such as Pelgrimstraat, which has a few more stores and restaurant. But this is a quieter street than those main lanes we were just walking on. It's so peaceful, your dog can just rest right in the street. No cars going by here, making it a tranquil place for a little snooze.

Notice a tiny medieval alleyway that extends out from Pelgrimstraat, Vlaaikensgang, which dates back to the year 1591. In those days, the city's poorest people used to live here. There were plans to demolish this medieval street in the 1960s until an antique dealer purchased it and restored it.

Now it leads to Handschoenmarkt, which has some delicious restaurants. I had never had a salmon meal brought to my table, sizzling this much in its cast iron pan. It was so delicious. It proves you can get a gourmet meal in what looks like a touristic street, a place where you can buy postcards, souvenirs and find some Belgian specialties in a typical restaurant.

While the town center is touristic, it's also a place where the locals come together to eat, to sit at a cafe and do some shopping. A field trip for local students gives them a chance to learn more about their city. One of the great attractions of Antwerp is it is not just a place for tourists, but is a thriving city filled with locals leading their daily lives.

We're in Handschoenmarkt in front of the cathedral, which has a well that dates back to the 15th century, crafted from intricate wrought iron featuring fantastical creatures and intricate geometric patterns. The statue of Nello and Patrasche symbolizes a story about a poor orphan boy and the abandoned pet dog, representing loyalty and friendship. We'll circle back here later for an extended visit inside the cathedral, a massive Gothic building dating back to the 14th century.

Nearby, you'll find another kind of religious experience surrounded by Angel and saint statues on pulpits. You can enjoy some delicious Belgian cuisine at this culinary pub in a building dating back to 1425. There are numerous restaurants on this plaza, which is also surrounded by other streets filled with places to eat, such as the famous Giovanni, around the corner on Jan Blomstraat.

Grote Markt leads into Hoogstraat, one of the best and busiest and most fun streets in the city, just 300 meters long and loaded with many restaurants. I enjoyed a typical Belgian meal at my outdoor table at Ernest, delightful sidewalk ambiance with good service and delicious Flemish beef stew with fries and beer.

Many Belgian cities have a Hoogstraat, which means High Street, so it's always going to be something interesting to walk down, with attractive side lanes like Stoofstraat leading out from it. Our street ends at a little plaza with a statue of Jacob Jordaens, who became the leading Flemish Baroque painter after the passing of Rubens and Van Dyke. Nearby, we find this cobblestone market square, which is most famous for its open air Sunday antique market.

But during the rest of the week, like now, it's rather quiet and sometimes used as a basketball court. That plaza extends out as a street called Steenhouwervest, one of the main crosstown lanes of the historic center. The street name means Stonecutters Alley, which hints at his former life and medieval roots as a place where there was clanging of chisels and the rumble of carts loaded with granite blocks.

This brings us to another plaza that has an outdoor market every Friday. It's called the Friday Market, selling second hand household goods. And naturally, there are outdoor cafes and shops all around it with benches and trees in the middle.

There is a major museum on this plaza that's considered one of the top visitor attractions of Antwerp. It's the Plantin-Moretus Museum that specializes in printing and old books and manuscripts and maps.

The Plantin-Moretus Museum is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The museum is home to the printing press of Christopher Plantin, who was one of the most important printers of the 16th century.

A highlight of the collection is the oldest surviving printing press. They'll put on some demonstrations such as illustrating early, movable type, and there are many other printing presses here, along with examples of old books and manuscripts in the historic setting of the original building that dates back to the 16th century. With a beautiful portico arcade all around the central garden.

It's that kind of museum where the building and its environment are just as interesting as the artifacts that it contains. Around the corner, we get to Kammenstraat, which is noted for its vintage fashions. At this street, we are about halfway through the walking tour of the historic center. We've seen a lot already, and there is much more to discover as we continue on through town.

We're continuing along that same crosstown street, which has now changed names to Lombardenvest, with some high-end fashion houses sharing space with local Antwerp labels. And there's antique dealers, specialty stores, others contributing to a modern ambiance with a wider street and large contemporary shops. We're now over on the east side of the historic center, and things do look a little bit different here.

The buildings are more modern. This was part of the area that was bombed in 1944 in World War Two, especially that nearby shopping street of Meir, that will be getting to very soon. The streets have become pedestrianized only in recent decades, but this neighborhood also has a wide street for trams and cars. We are in the heart of downtown Antwerp.

It looks like a completely different city compared to those medieval lanes that we had just been walking through only a few blocks away from here. Then around the corner we get to the main pedestrian shopping mall of the city called Meir. It has been pedestrianized since 1993 and is said to be the Belgian equivalent of New York's Fifth Avenue or the Champs Elyses, with the highest shop rents of any street in Belgium.

It's a haven for upscale shoppers looking for Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton. And, of course, popular high street brands like FNAC, H&M and Zara.

From that big mall, we are retracing our steps back over to the modern busy street of Schoenmarkt, with all those trams and buses going by, leading us to a big shopping mall. It's the Grand Bazaar.

The original building opened in 1885 and has been greatly expanded and modernized since then. Now when you walk inside, it seems like the same kind of shopping mall that you'll find all over the world. Probably not the most satisfying activity for a visitor, but it's convenient with dozens of shops under one roof. When you come out the back side of the big mall, you'll be in another shopping square, Eiermarkt, a broad pedestrian mall 200 meters long and lined with more shops. Eiermarkt is connected to the largest square of all, Groenplaats, located right next to the cathedral. As the map shows, we've just come out of the Grand Bazaar, walked along a market street to the big square, then heading north, a few blocks through more picturesque streets to a big church, and then we'll come back around and visit inside the cathedral.

In English, the name means Green Square. The Hilton Hotel on this square is in an old building that was part of the original Grand Bazaar back at the turn of the 19th century. This square is in the center of town right next to the cathedral, which we can see in the background, and a statue of Rubens in the foreground.

Of course, there are some outdoor restaurants and shops here, and it's a very busy transportation hub. Several tram lines go right through the square and there is a metro down below, along with a parking garage. Antwerp mass transit has 14 lines, some of which are underground metro lines, and others are trams that run at the surface. Trams first began here in 1902, pulled by horses and then later electrified.

It's a very efficient system, quite clean and convenient with escalators that will take you back up to surface level, making it much better than driving a car to get around. Or you could take the little toy train for an easy sightseeing ride. But of course, we know the best way to get around, which is walking, especially in such a pedestrian friendly city like this.

One of the nice things about all of these neighborhoods that we've been walking through is the mix of people. You've got mostly locals and of course, there are some visitors, serving up an authentic blend in this cast of characters that makes for some pretty good people-watching. Then step into a bar and you'll feel like you're part of the neighborhood.

By now, after watching faithfully to this point, you figured it out what are some of the main activities here in the city center? How about just sitting around at a cafe, having a coffee and having a chat and then stretch your legs and meander through this tangled twist of lanes? It's quite remarkable how large this pedestrian zone is. It just keeps going.

So fascinating. All these people out enjoying themselves, eating, drinking and shopping. It could take you at least a couple of days to walk through the areas that we've been showing you.

This leads to another one of the great sights of town, the Baroque Jesuit Church of Saint Charles Borromeo. It looks like we've jumped over to Italy. It was built between 1615 and 1621 in the middle of the Counter-Reformation period, a time when the church was very concerned with creating beautiful interior decorations to retain the faithful.

A church guide told us a little bit more about it: "It's a baroque church. It's one of the most beautiful churches in Antwerp and in Europe. If you look up to the painting, you see God is hanging a hand. And if you see the painting that is the Madonna who reached to God."

We emerge into Wijngaardstraat, named after the vineyards that were once here, now, one of the most charming lanes of the center with a variety of restaurants. Yes, wine bars and shops. The architecture here is that typical mix of styles that spans the centuries. Heading back south, we return to some busy streets that are wider. They have traffic and trams rolling right down the middle. Then we duck in to another quaint pedestrian lane that leads us to a row of buildings that are attached to the side of the cathedral.

This was common practice in the Middle Ages where they built housing connected to the church for priests and other church officials. Some are now converted to restaurants and shops. One shop worker invited me in to have a look. In the backyard you can see the building is physically attached to the church and behind them, the cathedral has a large private garden.

"It's a super, super big garden. Inside there you see a picture from Google Maps. Yeah, you will see. But it's huge and it's private."

Now we are ready to enter what might be for many, the number-one attraction of Antwerp, the great Cathedral. This gothic masterpiece is larger than any other church in Belgium or the Netherlands.

Nearly 400 feet long and 200 feet wide. It's so large it has 125 massive columns holding it up with three aisles on one side, the nave in the middle and three aisles on the other side, with stained glass and chapels all around it. On this site there is already a small chapel in the ninth century, and in 1352, the construction of this largest gothic church in the low countries began. 170 years later, the cathedral was finished rising 123 meters high.

The belfry tower is on the list of UNESCO's World Heritage sites. There are four major paintings by Rubens here, which include the Elevation Of The Cross and the Descent From The Cross, extremely expressive of the utter inertness of a dead body. Down below, you can walk through the crypt, which shows with archeological details the earlier foundation of the church.

The visitor will find many other points of interest in this vast church, which is a veritable museum of art, architecture, history and human progress. Enjoying the stained glass while strolling along the ambulatory and then looking at the wonderful statues out front on the facade are some more of the artistic highlights of this amazing cathedral, culminating in the Last Judgment.

There is a lot more to see in Antwerp, beyond the historic center that we've been walking through. So now we're going to spread out a little bit, get on the tram and head south along Nationalstraat, a major shopping street that looks so interesting out the window of the tram while rolling along, I decided on the way back I was going to walk this same route.

That total distance is 1.5 kilometers and can easily be walked in about half an hour, as you will see in a few minutes. But first, we're heading for an important cultural icon of the city, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, with the convenient tram station right in front of it. As you step into the building and enter the grand lobby, you get a welcoming preview of the incredible artworks that are waiting inside. The museum houses a vast collection of paintings, sculptures and drawings spanning the 14th through the 20th centuries with masterpieces by renowned Flemish painters like Jan Van Eyck, Pieter Bruegel, Van Dyck, and especially Rubens, Antwerp's most important artist.

They also display a nice mix of modern and contemporary works, including some temporary special exhibits. So the museum has something for everybody, including the kids. At the time of my visit, the walls of one gallery room were just covered with this most unusual video installation. The walls came to life in a whole variety of colors and patterns and foliage and jewelry.

The museum collection was founded in 1810, and the collection grew so much that they opened this building in 1890. Recently renovated, this is the largest museum in Flanders and one of the top European art museums. It provides a wonderful learning experience about major phases of art history, including one of the best collections of Rubens to be found anywhere, which figures because he was born and worked here in Antwerp. A prolific artist with many subjects portraits, the Bible, landscapes covering the rich and famous also works by Van Dyke and Hans mumbling, including God the Father with singing and musical angels from a Spanish church, then most famously Rembrandt and Frans Hals, or Roger van der Weiden. Bruegel is always a favorite here with his wedding dance and Magritte, Belgium's master of Surrealism.

And they have the world's largest collection of works by Belgian artist James Ensor, who marked the transformation to modern art.

Coming out of this large museum with its huge and comprehensive collection, it would be understandable if you're feeling a little tired and would like to catch a ride back to the center. Well, the trams are right here. You could hop on, no problem.

But first of all, the museum neighborhood has got some good-looking restaurants. So maybe take a break, have lunch, as I did at Hart & Ziel, with a fabulous salad and then prepare to do some walking back to the center along that beautiful street, which is called Volkstraat here, and then changes names to Nationalstraat. There is a large stone monument here that was erected in 1873, commemorating the end of the blockade of the Schelde river.

That is such an important story in Belgian history that I'll fill you in as we walk along on Nationalstraat. Antwerp became very wealthy during the 16th century because it had the best harbor in Europe. Previously, Bruges had been more important, but their harbor silted up with stream deposits, leaving Antwerp as the best harbor in northern Europe, leading to the golden age of Antwerp as one of the wealthiest cities in Europe. The problem was they were controlled politically by Spain and the Netherlands, which had declared independence from Spanish rule blockaded Antwerp's main river, the Schelde for the next three centuries in order to weaken Spain's hold on the region, which led to economic devastation in Antwerp. With the blockaded harbor they could no longer conduct trade and went into several centuries of economic decline, with Amsterdam and Rotterdam becoming far more important.

Finally, Belgium became independent from the Netherlands in 1830 and several decades later signed the Treaty of London, which ended that blockade, leading to a new period of growth for Antwerp, which has continued until the present day.

St Andrew's Church was built in the early 16th century by the Augustinian fathers. The style is late Gothic, with some elements of the Baroque. It was getting some much needed renovations. The church is located in what's called the fashion District, an industry that's become very important to Antwerp, and there is a special museum dedicated to fashion The MoMu, a shrine to the success of the city's fashion designers. Founded in 2002, the collection spans centuries from the 18th century to the present day, including over 30,000 garments, accessories and textiles.

Fashion and diamonds are two of the main industries of Antwerp. Out on the street, we get a little demonstration of how they can deal with bringing materials to the upper floors, perhaps for construction, renovation, or moving in or out. We end our walk back to the center on Kammenstraat, and then it's time to hop on another tram and head a little further north to visit yet one more of the great museums of the city.

Art enthusiasts will also relish a visit to the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS), with the central focus of Antwerp and its connections to the world, artifacts ranging from maritime objects to history, art, cultural traditions and a collection of more than 600,000 objects. It documents international trade and culture from Europe, Africa, America, Asia and Oceania. Connecting local and global culture. You'll get some great views looking down into the marina from the upper floors.

This contemporary museum offers a captivating journey through the history of Antwerp, its relationship with the river, and its global connections. Explore the various exhibitions, including archaeological artifacts, maritime heritage, and modern art installations.

While there is a charge to go inside the museum, you can go to these observation levels at no charge. Escalator to take you back down to the lobby, and across the street you can catch a tram that will take you back towards the center for yet another museum, located in one of the great old buildings of the city Vleeshuis, which had been the headquarters of the butchers.

It was a meat market. Now it's a museum, a musical instruments with interactive displays. Take a 600-year journey back into the musical and dance history of Antwerp. Vleeshuis had been the tallest private building in the city throughout the 16th century and conveyed the might of a guild that controlled the preparation and sale of meat. Another relic of the past is Het Steen, a castle that dates from the 10th century, the oldest building in the city.

Now it contains the official visitor center with a panoramic roof terrace and exhibits about the city's history. Next to the castle, you'll find a dock for the water bus ferry that goes back and forth across the Shelde River. It's not free, but people pay a monthly price for regular commuters. Or you can pay 3 euro for a single ride.

Now, for our final scenes, we have to return to that most beautiful part of the city, the Grote Markt, the Grand Square. It is the center and be all and end all of Antwerp, a place you will come back to many times during your visit and gives you a reason to stay in the city for several days so that you can get around and then come back again and again to the Grote Markt.

Perhaps the main activity here is enjoying a beer at one of the many pubs.

"Here we are in Den Engel, and there is lots of beer and lots of beer here. There we go. (laughter) a lot of fun. Now it's really nice. You got to come to Antwerp and when you do come to Den Engel.”

The Grote Markt is the beating heart of this city. Look around and enjoy the impressive Town Hall and centuries-old guild houses. Once they belonged to powerful organizations that are impressive reminders of the wealth of the city in its 16th century heyday.

Earlier we saw the various streets leading out from the central marketplace. And now we'll have another look, a final look at this beautiful scenario during the daytime, in the evening, and then early in the morning.

It's a good time to get out and have a look when it's very quiet. We have been enjoying a long adventure through Antwerp, exploring the central historic district and getting out to those museums, riding the trams, taking a walk. And now it's time to wrap it up with a rest back at the hotel, I've been staying at the Hotel Rubens, right in the heart of town, providing that restful energy to explore the city.

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Antwerp is the second-largest city in Belgium, with a population over 500,000. It is is a thriving cultural hub with a captivating blend of medieval architecture, contemporary design, fashionable shopping, and artistic masterpieces.

Antwerp is a major port city known as the "Diamond Capital of the World," home to a large diamond exchange. This historic city is situated on the Schelde River, about 88 km from the North Sea.

As you wander through the charming cobblestone streets, you'll notice the abundance of boutique shops and designer stores. Antwerp is renowned for its fashion scene and is home to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, where renowned designers such as Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester studied.

Be sure to explore the fashion district known as the "Antwerp Six," a group of avant-garde designers who gained international recognition in the 1980s.

Museums

The city is also known for its art scene, and is home to the Rubenshuis, a museum dedicated to the life and work of the Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. The house was built in 1611, and Rubens lived there until his death in 1640.

Diamond District

For those interested in diamonds, a visit to the Antwerp Diamond District is a must. The district is home to over 1,500 diamond dealers, and is where most of the world's diamonds are traded. Discover the world of diamond cutting, learn about the city's diamond heritage, and perhaps even treat yourself to a sparkling souvenir.

Zuid

To experience Antwerp's vibrant nightlife, head to Zuid, a trendy neighborhood brimming with bars, restaurants, and art galleries. Enjoy a delicious Belgian beer or indulge in local culinary delights, such as steaming bowls of moules-frites (mussels with fries) or delicate Belgian chocolates.

Antwerp is also renowned for its vibrant music scene. If you're lucky, you might catch a performance at the Antwerp Sportpaleis, a massive concert venue that has hosted world-famous musicians and bands.

Vordenstein park

This garden is a 25-hectare park is just northeast of Antwerp. The Vordenstein domain was created in the 14th century out of the Hof ter Katen and the Hof van de Werve. At that time, the domain had a mainly agrarian function, with the feudal lord leasing patches of the land to various farmers. Starting in the 18th century, the domain gradually evolved into a recreational estate with a castle and an extensive pleasure garden, owned by a succession of wealthy families from Antwerp as a countryside retreat. In 1980 the majority of the park was eventually bought by the Belgian state, and subsequently opened to the public. A smaller part in the middle of the domain remains privately owned by the De Pret family that inherited the domain at the beginning of the 20th century.

The majority of the present day layout stems from the 18th and 19th centuries. The oldest part of the park, the so-called Sterrenbos in the northeastern corner, was laid out in a baroque and geometrical fashion, inspired by the French gardens of Versailles. At the end of the 18th century, a forest in romantic style was planted in the middle of the park. The southwestern part of the domain was laid out in 1850 as an English landscape garden, with a pond, patches of trees and exotic plants. In the southeast lies the vegetable garden and the orangerie, which was built in the early 19th century, and is now used as a cafe. The forests in the northwest and the east were only planted at the end of the 19th century on what had been land used for farming.

Whether you're interested in art, history, or just exploring a charming European city, Antwerp is sure to impress.

You can also watch the video on the dedicated video page.

Official Tourist Information website and 48 hours itinerary